We’re still working on the text but wanted to get this blog posted while we had somewhat fast internet here in Quito.
We arrived on San Christbol Island on a muggy Sunday afternoon and climbed into a truck taxi for our 45-minute drive to Jatan Sacha, one of several stations in Ecuador devoted to the preservation of endangered species. We came with a commitment to work for a month with the understanding that on weekends we would be free to explore the wonders of the Galapagos Islands. The work proved to be physically demanding. We used machetes for just about everything from clearing trees to weeding the gardens, and worked about 5 ½ hours a day in the heat, high humidity and the bugs for what turned out to be about three to four days a week. (We were lucky to hit a couple holidays during our month stay and usually passed on the Friday nature hikes.) We whacked mora, an invasive blackberry plant, nurtured seedlings, planted endemic trees, helped in the kitchen and roasted organic coffee. But mostly, we enjoyed the islands and its friendly creatures.
First we took a four-day tour of the main islands. On the tour we checked out other islands, Fernandina, Isabela and Santa Cruz. We snorkeled daily as well as took interesting hikes, visited volcanoes and sink holes, giant tortoise breeding grounds and of course, the Charles Darwin Center on Santa Cruz Island. All along the way, we had rich encounters with the wildlife.
The first remarkable animals were the sea lions warming themselves on the beach, sidewalks and boats of our little host village. Then we noticed the bright orange crabs covering the rocks and being bathed by the surf. Then it was the marine iguanas that blended so well with the dark volcanic rocks that we would be startled when their sudden movement blew their cover. There were tiny colorful birds who hopped on our tables of the open air restaurants looking for a quick bite, that never failed to amuse us. The magnificent friggett birds who steal fish from other birds because they lack the necessary oil on their feathers that would allow them to fish for themselves. The males red balloon inflating boldly announcing its availability and drawing attention to its well-appointed nest. And there were other classic Galapagos animals like the boobies, both red and blue, the albatros and the dolphin. There was the rare scarlet-colored flycatcher and a variety of Darwin’s finches, each with its own island home. We were blessed by them all and so many more that we lacked the knowledge to identify or I suspect, to adequately appreciate.
At the water’s edge with fins, snorkel and mask, we held our breath as the sea turtles swam by, the eagle rays drifted below us, the reef sharks calmly drifting around us. Fur seals would come up within inches of our masks and invite us to play with their big brown eyes peering into ours. Satisfied that we intended no harm, we would spin around in the shallow water together in joyful bliss. We were reminded of our many rich encounters with village children and how there didn’t seem to be any barriers between us. Of the many amazing animal encounters, these guys were the best, so easy to personify, so friendly and playful that for a moment, we could forget that we were humans and they were not. We were blessed with another non-dual experience, his one without plant medicine or sitting bench.
We spent an extra 5 days on Santa Cruz so John could scuba dive in the most amazing waters he had ever encountered. Here’s a little about John’s scuba diving experiences:
My first dive in 15 years proved to be the most challenging one ever. The small rock island of Leon Dormido (sleeping lion) just off the shore of San Christobol is notorious for it’s strong and unpredictable currents. There are two gaps in the rock that result in a number of points where the current goes in both directions. Combine this with strong surf, alternating between throwing you up near the surface and driving you into the depths, and you’ve got a pretty tough ride. I didn’t see much wildlife on these two dives. I was too busy fighting back panic and trying to stay alive. It was a powerful time for practice and there were several moments that I came close to checking out of the experience and returning to the comforts of the awaiting boat. But, with focused effort, I was able to shift into observer mode, bring my rapid gasping of air to a more slow and steady pace and watch the panic pass. I was glad that I survived this level of diving and felt confident that the next dives would be less demanding and that I might even find time to look around and not simply suck a tank of air in record time.
The remaining eight dives around Santa Cruz Island were simply amazing, and as I relaxed into the comfort of this surreal environment, I felt a rush of aliveness and connectedness that I can only describe as a spiritual awakening, a reminder of the interrelation of all of creation and the beautiful the dance of life, even given the constant presence of death or perhaps because of it.
There were always large groups of colorful fish, some gathered in tight schools. As a predator fish passed through, the school would scatter for an instant and then re-form, seemingly a bit tighter than a moment before. The colors of the fishes and the coral bright and varied were punctuated with the regular passing of sea turtles and rays. Dolphins jumped across the wake of the boat and sea turtles mated on top of the water. Fur seals dived and swam up close to check us out. The encounters were pure joy. Then there were the high points that divers dream about and, those who are blessed by them, talk about to anyone who will listen. One day it’s a group of 25 white-tipped reef sharks, four to six feet long swimming within a few yards of us. Another dive it’s 30 spotted eagle rays calmly drifting around by us in formation. Then the rush of catching the profiles of large hammerhead sharks appearing from the haze for an instant. Once, six or eight came within 20 feet before they caught sight of our bubbles and darted away. The diving was clearly the highlight of my month in Galapagos. I leave with experiences I will treasure and re-play in my mind any time I feel adrift in this big crazy world. I would diving and snorkeling to anyone with the slightest inclination toward exploring the world beneath the surface.
Here’s a QuickTiime video made from some of our photos. The background music is Cesar playing and singing with the rest of our group talking and singing in the background.
done